Process of and mechanism for making neckties



Jan. 5, 1932. AMEs E AL rgocnss OF AND MECHANISM FOR MAKING NEC'KTIE'S Filed Aug. 14, 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTORS E.E.AMES And JE MU/VGER BY 64.

ATTO EY Jan. 5, 1932. 5, 5, AMES 51- 1,839,855

PROCESS OF AHD MECHANISM FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Aug. 14, 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORS EE. AMES a nd 1 1 Ml/NGER Z' ATTO EY Jan. 5,v 1932. E. E. AMES ETAL 1,839,355

PROCESS OF AND MECHANISM FOR MAKING NECKTIES 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Aug. 14. 1929 lNVENTOR-S E,E. AME S and J. E HUNGER BY 3. d.

' ATTOR Jan. 5, 1932.

s. E. AMES ETAL PROCESS OF AND MECHANISM FOR MAKING NEGKTIES Filed Aug. 14. 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTORS E.E.AM ES and J. F MU VGER BY 5. d.

ATTO EY Jah. 5 1932. 5, AMES ET AL 1,839,855

PROCESS OF AND MECHANISM FOR MAKING NECKTIES Filed Aug. 14. 1929 s Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Jan. 5, 1932 ETED STATES PATENT Price,

ELMER E. AMES ND J. FRED HUNGER, on nocnns'rnn, nnwY on-K PROCESS OF I) MECHANE$M FOR IiIAKING- NEOKTIES Application filed August 14, 1929.. Serial No. 385,868.

7 Thepresent invention relates to Wearing apparel and more particularly to neckties of the varieties known as four-in-hand? and bow ties, one object of the invention being I the provision of an improved process and apparatus for the production of necktiesby which the ties may be continuously formed in a rapid efficient manner without the necessity of turning the ties inside out, as is now customary.

Another object of the invention is the provision of a new and improved necktie construction of this type which can be completely formed in a single, continuous proc- 1 ess and which has both of its surfacesfinished so that it can be worn either side out to thus provide greater wearing qualities. A further object is to provide a tie which can be formed so as to closely simulate the four-in-hand and bow ties now commonly on the market which are generally hand made and which require turning of the tie right side out afterthe tie has been sewed.

. To these and other ends the invention resides in certain improvements and combinations of parts, all as will be hereinafter more fully described, the novel features being pointed out in the claims at the end of the specification.

In the drawings:

Fig. l is a side elevation of one embodiment of a machine for carrying out the above objects; I I

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the machine as '35 shown in Fi 1, a part of the machine being shown in section approximately along line 22 of Fig. l;

Fig. 8 is a detail view of one of the storage reels for the tie material;

Fig. 4: is a fragmentary, and more or less diagrammatic, cross-sectional view of the folding and pressing mechanism taken substantially on line 4-4 of Fig. 2, certain parts being' omitted for the sake of simplic-' ity of disclosure;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary detail view illustrating a portion of the'folder mechanism shown in Fig. 4 but without showing the webs associated therewith;

9 Fig. 6 is a fragmentary view of the folder vation as it would mechanism taken substantially on line 6 6 of Fig. 5; i

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional detail view of a tie or similar article formed according to the present invention; A

Fig. 8 isa schematic plan view of the tie stock substantially as it appears after leaving the presser mechanism and before being cut into proper lengths; t

Fig. 9 is an enlarged plan View of a por- $30 tion of the machine showing the arrangement by which the adhesive material is supplied to the folding mechanism; 7

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary plan view some,- what similar to Fig. 9 and illustrating'the manner in which the tie material is associated with the folding and pressing mechl mi Fig. 11 1s a fragmentary plan view, on an enlarged scale, of the cutting mechanism; Fig. 12 is a further detail of the cutting mechanism showing such mechanism in eleappear when looking from the left end of the machine shown in Fig. 2';

Fig. 13 is a cross-section detail view of 5 the cutting mechanism taken substantially along line 1313 of Fig. 11;

Fig. 14: is a fragmentary plan view, on an enlarged scale, of the gearing connecting the I folder controlling cam with the pressing mechanism; r i

Fig. 15 is a more or less diagrammatic view in side elevation illustrating the gearing shown in Fig. 14;; and

Fig. 16 is a fragmentary detail view of the 1 folding mechanism and its association with the folder controlling cam.

Similar reference numerals throughout the several views indicate the same parts.

The present embodiment. of the invention, as herein disclosed,comprises in general a pair of storage units for strips or webs of necktie'material, such for example 'as'silk or any other suitablematerial; these'webs or strips are fed insynchronism past cutting mechanism which shapes the sides thereof to the proper contour for forming-neckties but somewhat wider than the finished tie. The webs next pass into engagement with V folding mechanism which folds aportion of 156 a pair o f slots,

at 17, is provided for the edges of each web inwardly. WVhile the folding process is being performed a suitable adhesive material is applied to one or both of the adjacent folds at each side of the assembled strips or webs; after which the assembled webs are united by the application of pressure or by both pressure and heat.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, 10 indicates the frame of the apparatus which carries thereon a pair of storage units in the form of supply reels 11 and 12 for the necktie materials, hereinafter termed silk. A supply reel 13 is provided for the filling material between the outer layers of silk which will hereinafter be termed the filler. A cutting mechanism, designated generally at 14, is provided for cutting the edges of the silk and filler webs to the proper contour. A folding mechanism, designated generally at 15, is arranged to engage and fold the edges of the silk inwardly toward each other. A. supply reel 16 for an adhesive strip is arranged at each side of the webs.

designated generally uniting the folded the adhesive strip therebetween.

A presser mechanism,

edges with vA cutoff mechanism 18 is provided for severing the finished tie stock at proper points to .form ties of the desired length.

The frame 10 is provided with suitable legs 19 by which it may be secured'to a bench or other support.

The silk supply reels 11 and 12 may be located in any convenient manner upon frame 10 but, in the present instance, the reel 11 is located on an extension 20 at the upper side of frame 10 and the reel 12 is located in the lower most part of the frame' The filler reel 13 is conveniently located at the extreme upper end of the frame adjacent to reel 11. As reels 11, 12 and 13 are substantially identical a description of one of them will suffice. Considering, for example, the reel 12, one of which is shown at 21, is provided in the sides of the frame 10 and into these slots are received the ends of a spindle 22 which supports the reel.

The spindle 22 is held in place wlthin the grooves 21 by means of a pair of locking plates 23 pivoted at their upper ends on the held in place at their lower ends by a pin 25. The plates 23, on the side adjacent the spindle, are provided with a semi-circular notch which engages the spindle at one side and retains it in the slot.

The spindle 22 is provided at one end with a pair of collars or flanges 27 which engage on either side of the frame to prevent endwise'movement of the. spindle relatively to theframe. One of the flanges 27, preferably the outer one, is formed with a notch which engages a pin 28 on the frame and thus prevents thespindle from turning.

Means are provided for preventing too frame at 24 and free rotationof the reel 12 on the spindle,

and for this purpose a flanged sleeve 30, having the flange 31 thereof provided with a facing 32 of leather or cork, is arranged at one end of the spindle so that the facing 32 bears against one side of the reel. This flanged sleeve is suitably keyed to the spindle in any well known manner. A similar flange 33 is provided at the other side of the reel which, in turn, is provided with a facing 34, similar to facing 31, hearing on the other side of the reel. This flange 33 is keyed to the spindle in a well known manner so as to slide toward and'from the reel. In order to hold the flange 33yieldingly against the side of the reel there is provided, surrounding the spindle, a coil spring 36, the tension of which can be increased or diminished by a nut 37 hreaded onto the spindle, which bears against one end of thespring 36 and holds the other end thereof against the flange 33.

The reels 11 and 13, at the top of the frame 10, are mounted therein the same as in the case of reel 12 except that a locking plate is unnecessary since the slots in the frame for however, could be provided, .if desired, for the spindles of these reels.

The silk, designated at 38,, passing off of reel 11, passes under a suitable guide roll 40 and. thence to the cutting mechanism. The silk'41, passing from reel 12, goes directly to the cutting mechanism, .and the filler 42 from reel 13 passes under a guide roll 43.

The cutting mechanism will now be described. Any suitable cutting means capable of severing a strip of varying width from the sides of the silk and'filler webs may be employed but, in the present embodiment of the invention, prises a plurality of blades 44, see Figs. 1, 11, 12 and 13, one of which is arranged'to sever a strip from each side of each web. The cutting mechanism 14 comprises a pair of similar frame elements 45, disposed at the sides of given a synchronous in-.and-out movement,

by mechanism to be presently described, for

giving the silk and filler webs the proper shape.

Each frame 45 comprises a vertical member 46, see Figs. 1 and 11, to which is connected, at spaced points therealong, 47 which support the cutting blades 44. For the purpose of maintaining the web in proper contact with the blades 44, a pair of guide rollers 48, 48 are supported, suitably journalled, on the frame 10, the rollers being disposed at opposite ends of the blades 44.

The bars 47, 47 for the cutter blades 44 are suitably mounted to provide for movement of the blades inwardly and outwardly from the centers of the webs, and for thispurpose each the cutting mechanism 14 comthe bars of the bars 47 is pivotally mounted with respect to the frame 10. A plurality of cross bars 50, 50 extend from one side of the frame to the other and .are provided fwith slots 51 adapted to receive bolts 52 which pass though openings formed in the bars 47 and are provided with nuts 53 to hold the bolts in proper adjusted position along slots 51. The bolts 52 thus serve as adjustable pivot elements about which the bars 47 may swing.

In order to maintain the knives in proper position and to prevent sagging of the bars 4-7 downwardly at the ends which support the cutter blades, the vertical members 46 are each provided at their lower ends with a roller 54 which bears on a track member 55, supported at its ends in the frame 10.

The mechanism for moving the blades in proper synchronized in-and-out relation tothe webs comprises, in the present instance, a bar or rod 56 connected at its inner. end by a link 57 to one of the cutter bars 47, preferably the intermediate one, and at its outer end the rod 56 is secured to a crosshead 58 slidable on a guide member 59 threaded into the frame 10, see Fig. 2.

The crosshead 58 has a roller 60 mounted thereon which engages within a groove 61 of a cam 62. Mechanism, similar to that just described, is provided at the otherfside of the machine and is actuated by a cam 63 hav- 1112 a similar, but oppositely formed groove 64. The cams 62 and 63 are keyed or other-.

wise suitably secured to opposite ends of a shaft 65 soas to turn therewith.

For the purpose of driving thelshaft 65 a sprocket 66 is keyed thereon, such sprocket, in the present instance, being located near the end of the shaft 65 adjacent cam 62.

The cams 62 and 63 are of such a size. and are driven at such a speed as to make a single revolution during the passage of every two ties through the machine and the grooves; in the cams are shaped in such a manner as to give the desired contour to the tie. In case it is desired to produce ties. of a different length, either longer or shorter than the ties which will be produced with cams 62 and 63, it is desirable to providemechanism for accommodating cams of a larger or smaller size. For this purpose there is formed in each of the frame members 10 a guideway 67' adapted'to receive ajournal block 68 in'which the ends of the shaft 65 are journalled. Adjusting mechanism is provided for moving the journal block from one side of the guideway to the other and securing it 1n fixed relation thereto. This mechanism, in the present instance, comprises an adjusting screw 69 threaded into a plate 70 which is secured, in .any suitable manner, to the frame 10 across the open end of the guideway 67. The end of screw 69, adjacent the journal block 68, is provided with an enlargement 7 2 providing shoulders whereby the end of the ad ustrollers 79, and 81 to 'ing screw may be held in place against the journal block by means of a plate 73 having lugs 74 thereon resting against the journal block and through which pass machine screws 75threaded into the journal block.\ The plate 73 has a suitable aperture through which the'shaft of the screw 59 passes and in which it may freely turn. A locking or am nut 7 6 is provided to retain the adjusting screw 69 from turning after adjustment has* been effected. Thus when a small cam 62 is to be used on the shaft 65 the shaft will be moved by means of the adjusting screw 69 until it is near the right hand end of the guideway. Where a large cam is to be used the journal blocks 68 will be'shifted toward the left. I

Each web, after passing the cutter knives, passes under a suitable guiding meansrsuch as a rubber covered roller. designated at 77, '78, and 79, being respectively for webs 38, L2, and 41.

Suitable adjusting means are provided to insure the proper registering of tie trimmed webs at the folding mechanism 15 and the asarepivotcd studs 83, see Figs. 1 and 2, secured In each side of the frame 10. For

holding the frame members'82 in any adjusted position theframe 10 is provided on each side with a segmental slot 84, and a bolt secured in the frame member 82 has an end passing through the slot 84 and a nut-86i's threaded onto the end of the bolt 85. This nut may be tightened against the side of the frame 10 so as to hold the members 82 in fixed adjusted position. In the embodiment shownonly two of the webs are provided with adjustable rollers. All three webs could be so provided if desired but this is unnecessary for the reason that all of the desired adjustments may be obtained with one stationary guide roll and two adjustable guide rolls. The particular web which is provided with the stationary guide roll is immaterial as willbe obvious. I l T The webs or blanks pass directly from of rubber covered guide rollers 87, 87, see F igs. 1, 2,9 and 10, which align thewebs properly with the foldermechanism 15 which folds the edges of the webs inwardly imme-- diately before they pass between the rolls of the presser mechanism 17.

Suitable means is provided for joining the adjacent iii-folded edges of the upper and lower silk webs. While this mechanism may. take several forms, such These rollers are and betweena pair for example as a :ca i

the present instance this means preferably is Y m the form of-a narrow strip of adhesive material such as rubber mending tape. This adhesive material will be termed an adhesive strip and is designated at 88. This adhesive strip is supplied from the pair of reels 16, 16 which are supported at opposite sides of the frame 10in a manner which will. be presently described. The adhesive strips pass from the reels 16 up around t 1e adjustable roll 81 over which, it will be remembered, the filler web 42 also passes. From this point the adhesive strip passes directly to the folding mechanism. and into position between the adjacent in-folded flaps of the upper and lower silk webs or blanks. At this point it should be observed that the filler web will be trimmed to exactly the same contour as the silk webs except that the filler web will be somewhat narrower. In practice the filler web will be of such a width, with respectto the silk webs, that when the edges of said silk webs have been turned under and secured by the adhesive strip the filler web will be approximately the 5&1119'W1Clt-l1 as the distance between the in-turned edges on opposite sides of the web, see Fig. '4'. The filler web will be of such a thickness as to substantially equal the combined thickness of the adjacent in-turned edges and the adhesive strip between them so that all parts of the completed tie will be smooth and without having any portion thereof thicker than the rest.

In order to prevent the filler web from bunching or shifting when the tie is in use the filler web may be stitched, if desired, to

the outer silk webs for a short distance along the narrow part of the tie. This may also be accomplished by merely sewing a label, bearing the name of the dealer for whom the ties are made up, on the narrow part of the tie.

Each reel 16 is detachably mounted on the frame 10 with provision. for tensioning. For this purpose, see Fig. 9, a spindle 89 is threaded into the frame 10 and is provided with an axially movable collar 892 held from rotation about the spindle by means of a slot 893 in the collar which cooperates with a pin 89%- in the spindle. A spring 895 bears at one end against the frame 10 and at the other against the collar 89:2 so as to normally urge it outwardly of the spindle 89. The reel 16 is slipped over the end of spindle 89 and bears againstthe collar 892. Another similar collar 896 is then slipped onto the outer threaded end of spindle 89 and a nut 89'? is screwed thereon until the collar 896 bears against the side of reel 16 moving it toward the frame 19 against the compression of spring 895. The faces of the collars 892 and 896 are, if desired, suitably provided with a disk of leather or fabric indicated at 898 to frictionally obtain smooth and effective frictional action of the reel 16. a

The folding mechanism will now be .described. This mechanism, as previously stated, comprises a folding element 90, see Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 16, for each side of the tie and each of these: folding elements is given an in-andout movement, by suitable mechanism to be presently described, so as to maintain them in proper relation to the edges of the material which varies in width due to the reciprocation of the cutter knives previously described. It will be readily seen that the timing of the movementof the folding elements should be identical with that of the knives altho, obviously, the in-and-out movement of the folds may vary from'the cycle of movement of the knives dependingupon the spacing of these units on the machine base and also depending upon. the length of the tie to be manufactured.

The folding elements proper, as best shown in Figs. 5 and 6, are symmetricallyformed into: a right'and a left element and a description of one element willsufhce for both. The element 90 may be formed from a suitable block of metal 'having an inwardly directed opening 91 in which are mounted the folding spirals 92, 92 for the upper and lower silk webs. These spirals 92 are somewhat spaced from each other to provide a passageway or guide for the adhesive strip. The relations of the parts are such that the outer edge of thefladhesive strip is substantially flush with the outer folded edges of the upper and lower silk webs.

1 For the purpose of obtaining suitable inand-out movement of the folding elements, each folding element is suitably mounted on a movable bracket or 'c'rosshead 93, see Fig. 16 each of which is guided for in-andout movement relatively to the frame 10 by means of a pair of rods 94 which are slidably mounted in apertured bosses, 95 on the frame 10.

In order to control the in-and-out movement ofthe folder brackets there is provided a cam 96 keyed to a shaft 97 which is'suitably journalled in bearing blocks 98, 98 supported on the frame .10, as will bepresently. described. 'The cam96, as shown in Figs. 1,-

2 and 16 has symmetrically shapedcam surfaces on its sides and adjacentthe periphery thereof. in contact with thesecam surfaces at each side of'the cam element is a roller 99 suitably j'ournalled ina lug 100 in each folder bracket 93]. It will be seen that the sur faces of the cam element 96 each have three distinct parts indicated at 101, 102, and 103, see Fig. 16. The part 101 corresponds to the wide end of a'four-in-hand tie; the part 102 correspondsto thenarrow portion thereof andthe part I03corresponds to the narrow end of such a tie. The entire circumference of the cam element corresponds generally to the shape of two four-in-hand ties placed fin ' parts of'the tie together.

with their wide ends together and with their narrow ends together In other words for each revolution of this cam element two ties will be formed. Referring to Fig. 8, which shows a section of the tie stock, for every revolution of the folder control cam a lengt of stock corresponding to the distance from point A to point B will pass through the machine.

In order to provide for positive control of the in-and-out movement of the folder brackets 93 means is provided for maintaining the rollers 99 firmly against the cam surfaces. For this purpose coil springs 104: are provided on each side of the rollers 102 which springs have their ends secured respectively to each of the folder brackets as indicated at 105. Thus, when the cam element 96 is rotated, the rollers ride on the cam surfaces thereof and are held to such surfaces by means of the springs 10 1.

For the purpose of driving the cams 62 and 63 in synchronism with the cam 96 there is secured to one end of the shaft 97, projecting on the outside of the frame 10, a sprocket wheel 106 over which passes a suitable sprocket chain 107 which also passes about the sprocket 66 secured. on the shaft 65 of the cutter mechanism assembly previously described. The sprockets 106 and 66 willbe of exactly the same size thus providing for Xact synchronism between the cutting and folding mechanisms.

As in the case of cams 62 and 63, above described, cam 96 may be replaced by a cam of a different size and shape when it is desired to change the length or shape of the tie to be manufactured. For this purpose the bearings 98 are movably supported in guides 108 provided in the frame 10. One end of the guideway 108 is closed by a block 109 into which is threaded an adjusting screw 110 having a knurled head 111. The other end of the adjusting screw 110 has an enlargement or shoulder 112 which engages on one side against the bearing 98 and on the other side against a plate 113 which is apertured to receive the shaft of the adjusting screw 110 and is secured in fixed and spaced relation to the bearing by screws 114. Thus when a different sized cam 96 is installed the cam surfaces thereof will be brought into and held 111 proper relation to the rollers 99 by adjust ment of the bearing blocks 98 by nism ust described. The adjusting screw 110 the mechawill be secured from turning by means of a lock nut 115. Mechamsmis provided for insuring that any cam substituted for cam 96 will have the same surface travel therewith. This mechanism will be described in due course.

After the tie stock passes through the folder mechanism it is ready to pass through the mechanism for permanently securing the This mechanism 96.

has already been referred to as the presser mechanism 17. lVhile this mechanism may take various forms, in the present instance, there is provided a pair of rolls 116 and 117, see Figs. 1, 2 and 9. These rollsare pref erably heated in any desired manner, asv by means of steam or electrical resistance coils.

While other pressing mechanism than rolls may be employed at this point it is preferable to construct this mechanism in the form of rolls as illustrated. These rolls are main tained at a temperature which will properly soften the adhesive strip and the pressure between the rolls is such that the softened adhesive strip is caused to partly enter the interstices of the fabric of the inwardly folded edges on each side of the upper and lower silk. webs. In addition to the above functions these rolls serve to draw the webs from the supply rolls 11, 12 and 13 past the cutting mechanism and through the folding mechanism. If desired, however, other positive means could be provided at other points of the machine, more closely positioned to the cuttingmechanism.

The two rolls 116 and 117 have each a pair of spindles formed integrally therewith which are mounted in suitable pairs of bearing blocks 118 and 118', 119 and 119 slidable in vertically disposed openings 120, in the frame 10. The bearing blocks are suitably provided with shoulders 121 which engage on either side of the frame 10 to prevent lateral displacement of the blocks. The upper end of the opening 120 is closed by a block 122 which is secured in place in any suitable manner. The block 122, at a central point thereof, 1s provided with a threaded opening into which is screwed a knurled headed screw 124, the lower end of which bears upon the upper surface of the bearing block 118. By properly adjusting the screws 124 it will be possible to vary thepressure between the rolls 116 and 11? so that they will engage and act upon the tie in the proper manner.

The spindle portions 125 for the upper roll 116 project outwardly of the bearing blocks 118and 119 at each side of the machine. On one end of the spindle 125 there is provided a sprocket'126, for a purpose to be later described, and outwardly disposed from this sprocket is suitably keyed to the spindle a gear or pulley 127 by which the rolls 116 and 117 and, as will be seen later, all the other mechanism will be driven.

The rolls 116 and 117 are driven in unison in opposite directions by a pair of intermeshing pinions 128 and 128 secured respectively on the spindles of rolls 116 and 117, see Figs. 2 and 15. The pinion 128 operates through an intermediary gear 129 and associated pinion 130 to drive a gear 131 on shaft 97 which supports the cam element Means are provided to permit varying the speed ratio between the cam element 96 and the rolls 116 and 117. The necessity for this arrangement is that it is sometimes desirable to adjust the machine for production of different lengths of four-in-hand ties or even adjust it to produce bow ties which are considerably shorter than four-in-hand ties. The rolls 116 and 117' may be considered for example as being driven at a uniform speed for any variety or length of tie so it will be obvious that if the cam element 96 is replaced by'one of smaller circumference its R. P. M. would have to be increased so as to obtain the same peripheral speed as the larger cam element. 4

Thus, supposing that the machine is set to turnout four-in-ha-nd ties ii ty inches long, then-the cutter knives controlling earns 62 and (33 and the cam element 96 would each have such speed as to rotate once for every 100 inches of tie stock that passed through the machine. Now let i be supposed that it is desired to maize. shorter four-in-hand ties, say forty inches in length, the cams 62 and 6.8 and cam element 96will be replaced by other cams having the proper contours for the ties desired to be made. These cams must be given a. higher peripheral speed as it is necessary that they rotate once dulingthe time that eighty inches of tie stock passes through the machine. Provision has accordingly been made to change the speed of the cam element 96 and the cams 62 and 63. It will be reca led that these cams are driven by chain 107 runnin over sprockets 66 and 106 which are both or the same size. The change of speed maybe effected in various ways but, in the present i stance, this is done by making the gear and pinion assembly 129 and 130 replaceable by'siinilar gears of a different size. The pinion 130 should-be lar 'er and the gear 129 should be smaller in orc or to speed up the rotation of gear 131and consequently the cam 96.

V In --or-der to properly support various sized intermediate gears there is provided a swing able quadrant member 132 pivotally mounted at one end on shaft 97. T he member 132 is provided with a slot 133111 which a spindle bolt184 is adapted to slide and to besecured' at various points therealong The bolt 134 is provided with a head'135 which lies flush with the surface-of the quadrant member,

therebeing a cut-away portion 186 along each side of slot 133 against which the innerside of the head 1.35 bears. Sn the other side of the quadrant member and bearing with one end against the same is a sleeve 137 which serves as the spindle proper about which the gear and pinion assembly 129 an 13 rotates At the other end of sleeve 137 is a collar 138 which bears against such end and is held in place, by a nut 139 secured onto the screw threaded end of the spindle bolt 184. By

tightening the nut 139 the collar 138 is forced against the end of the sleeve 137 and the other end of the sleeve is forced against one side of the quadrant member while the bolt head is drawn against it on the other side. Thus the axis of the gear and pinion assembly 129 and 130 can be adjusted and fixed at various distances from the center of shaft 97.

In order to support the quadrant 132 at the proper angle so that the gear 129 will mesh properly with pinion 128 and the pinion 130 will mesh properly with gear 131 there is provided a segmental slot 140 in a segmental shaped arm 141 of the quadrant. A bolt 142 passes through an opening or slot in the frame and is arranged so that its head will bear against the arm 141 and clamp it against the frame when the nut on said bolt 142 is drawn up.

After the tie stock I has been properly folded and secured at the edges by adhesive and has passed between the rolls 116 'and'117 it is then ready to be out into proper lengths to form ties. VV'hile the tie stock can be satisfactorily cut by hand it is preferred to affect this result automatically as a continuous operation in conjunction with the operation of the other, parts of the machine. To this end there is mounted on the frame 10 adjacent the presser rolls a pair of cooperating cutter rolls 143 and 144. The upper cutter roll 143 contains an inserted blade 145 set in the rolls at an angle to its axis. Lower roll 144 is provided with a groove 146 with which the blade 145 cooperates. This groove 146 is set at the same angle as the blade. Thus when a tie passes between rolls 143 and 144 the rotation of the rolls is so arranged as to sever a tie at each complete revolution thereof. The blade will alternately sever the tie stock exactly at the widest part thereof and next at the part of intermediate width.

The rolls 148 and 144 will be provided with a suitable friction covering such as sheet rubber to provide for feeding of the tie stock uniformly therebetween.

. The lower roll 144 has a shaft 147 mounted in suitable bearing blocks 148, and on one end of this shaft there is arranged a sprocket 149 over. which a sprocket chain 150 passes from the sprocket 126, mentioned above as mountedon the spindle of the lower roll 117. The size of sprockets 126 and 149 is such that the cut-off roll 144 will be driven at the same peripheral speed as the rolls 116 and 117. The upper cutofi roll 143 is fixed to a shaft 150 mounted in bearing blocks 151. At the opposite end of roll 144 from the sprocket 149 is provided, fixed to th end of the shaft 147, a gear which'meshes with a similar gear 152 on the end of shaft 150. Thus the two rolls 143 and 144 will be driven at the same speec and in opposite directions. I

.The pressure between the rolls 143 and 144 may be varied, andfor this purpose there is provided a guide-way 154 in the frame provided with a pair of inwardly projecting tongues 155 cooperating with grooves 156 provided in the bearing blocks 148 and 151 so that the bearing blocks may slide up and down along the guideway 154. The top of each guide-way is closed by plate 157 which is secured at its ends to the frame 10 by screw 159 is turned in a direction to relieve its pressure against the top of bearing block 151 the spring 160 will force the bearing blocks apart and will cause a decrease in pressure between the rolls 143 and 144 or a 7 separation of the same.

7 webs will be pressed In order to adjust the phase of the cutoff rolls to properly sever the tie in case certain materials stretch unduly and the cutoff mechanism is not functioning properly the drive for the rolls could be provided with an adjusting mechanism which could be manipulated without stopping the machine. Such a mechanism is disclosed-in, the patent to Berg Heinrichs No. 1,484,066, granted February 19, 1924. 35-

While the use and operation of the mechanism described will be more or less apparent a summary of the operation will now be given.

material of coarser and cheaper texture as is generally used at the present time for the inside lining of ties. The adhesive supply reels 16, 16 will be filled with suitable ad- 45..

rubber mending tape and the various webs will be drawn through the machine, first past the cutter mechanism so that the edges of the webs will be cut to the proper configuration, after which the through the folding mechanism and between the pressing rolls. After the webs have been thus brought into assembling relation the adhesive strips will hesive strips such as be inserted so as to lie in proper position between the infolded edges of the silk webs and the machine is ready to start operating. If it should be found that the webs 38 and 42 are not entering the folders at exactly the right points with relation to the web 41 this will be cured by adjustment of rolls and 81 at either or both points, until the proper feeding of the webs is obtained. The pressing rolls will,

The reels 11 and 12 will be provided a of silk of the proper if desired, be heated to the proper temperature and as soon as the machine is put in operation the operator will see to it that the end of the tie stock'is inserted between the cutting rolls which will be adjusted to accurately cut the tie stock at the mid points of the portions corresponding tothe wide end of the ties and at the mid points of the stock corresponding to the narrow end of the ties.

It is obvious that the angle of the cutting knife 011 the cutting roll 143 and the groove on roll 144 may be changed if desired or these rolls might be dispensed with altogether and the ties might be cut by a hand implement.- Afterrthe ties leave the machine the severed ends can be finished in any desired manner to prevent them. from fraying out. As stated above, any suitable means may be provided for preventing displacement of the filler web. Such a means could take the form of one or more lines of stitches inserted in the narrow point or neck band of the tie or this could be done merely by the operation 1 of sewing a label along the neck band.

It will thus be seen that the present invention provides a mechanism for neatly and rapidly turning out ties or any similar articles having portions of varying widths throughout the length thereof." ince the usual operation of turning the tie is entirely dispensed with the manufactured ties of this type will be very materially speeded up and, obviously, the cost of the manufacture of such ties will be proportionally decreased. Since the ties made in accordance with the present invention have the same appearance on each side itwill be seen further that this feature will give the tie an added desirability in the trade, especiallyfwill this be true where low priced ties are involved.

While the present description setsforth a preferred embodiment of the invention, numerous changes may be made in the construction without departing from the spirit of the invention, and it is therefore desired that the present embodiment be considered in all respects as illustrativeand not restrictive, reference being-had to the appended claims rather than to the foregoing description to indicate the scope of the invention.

We claim: a V

1. I The method of making a necktie which comprises providing duplicate blanks symmetrically formed into wide and narrow portions, passing the edges of said blanks simultaneously through folders, moving the folders at opposite sides of said tie toward and from the center line of the blanks to fold inwardly a strip of substantially uniform width at said edges, applying adhesive material in between adjacent infolded edges and uniting the edges by application of pressure.

2. The method of forming neckties in a continuous strip which comprises forming a pair of blanks from continuous strips of material, folding inwardly theedges of each blank,applying= adhesive material to one of the infolded edges at each side, bringing the adjacent infolded edges together, uniting them by pressure, and severing the strip in proper lengths.

In a machine of the class described, the A combination with a pair of supply reels for Web material, cutting mechanism adapted to sever a strip of material from the edges of said webs, mechanism for moving said webs past said cutting mechanism, mechanism for moving said cutting mechanism toward and from thecenter of said webs whereby strips of material of predetermined variable widths are produced, guiding devices for bringing if said severed strips with their faces closely adjacent each other, mechanism for folding inwardly the edgesof each strip to form adjacent folds, mechanism for supplying adhesive strip material, mechanism for guidffling said adhesive strip in between the adjacent infolded edges of said strips, and mechanism for applying pressure to the assembled strips whereby the adhesive strip will cause the adjacent infolded edges of said first mentioned stripsto adhere.

v The method of producing ties in a continuous strip which comprises passing a pair of webs froma web supply at the same speed, severing the edges of the webs in a uniform I manner to form each strip of varying width but symmetrical with respect to the center thereof, folding the edges of each strip inwardly over the adjacent faces thereof, feed- :ing -a quantity of adhesive material in be- II-tween theadjacent infolded edges and uniting the infolded edges through the medium ofsaid adhesive material by pressure.

5. In a continuous necktie making machine, the combination of two independent supply reels for webs of necktie material adapted to form the face of the tie, mechanism for feeding said webs of necktie material at uniform rates from said reels, cutting mechanism adapted to cut a strip of predetermined shape '18"- from each side of each web, mechanism for moving said cutting mechanism in synchronized relation to the movement of said webs, folding mechanism adapted to engage and fold inwardly each edge of each web passing f' om the cuttmg mechanism, means for movinglsaid folding mechanism in synchronism with the movement of said web so as to follow the contour thereOf, means for applying adhesive material adjacent said infolded portions of said web, and pressure rolls adapted to -engage the assembled infolded edges with adhesive therebetween to unite the same.

6. In a continuous necktie making machine,

the combination of two independent supply reels for webs of necktie material adapted to form the face of the tie, a supply reel'for a strip of filler material to lie between said webs of necktie material, mechanism for feeding said webs of necktie and filler material at I a uniform rate from said reels, cutting mechanism adapted to sever a strip of predetermined shape from at least one of the juxtaposed sides of each of said webs, mechanism for controlling said cutting mechanism, folding mechanism adapted to engage and fold inwardly the jumaposed severed edges of said necktie material after passing from said cutting mechanism so that said edges lie adjacent an edge of said filler web, means for moving said folding mechanism in synchronism with the movement of said web so as to follow the curved contour thereof, means for applying adhesive material between said juxtaposed infolded edges of said necktie material, and pressure rolls adapted to engage the assembled infolded edges with adhesive therebetween to unite the same.

7 In a machine formaking neckties the combination of feeding means for a pair of Webs, cutting means for continuously severing a strip of variable width from adjacent edgesof the webs fed by said feeding means whereby said webs aresymmctrically formed with respect to each other, means for joining said symmetrically formed webs face to face, and means for varying the length of one of said webs with respect to the other between said cutting means and said joining means whereby said webs may be brought into registration with each other at said joining means. Signed at Rochesten'New York, this 1st day of August, 1929.

' ELMER E. AMES.

J. FRED MUNGER. 

